Large Room Home Humidifier Tips

It makes sense to acquire the best humidifier for large rooms if you have a huge space and want to increase the amount of moisture in it, right?

Apart from the defined room coverage area, there are some distinctions that differentiate the decent large room humidifiers from the best humidifiers for large rooms.

When purchasing a large room humidifier, there are four essential and four secondary criteria to be aware of.

Let’s start with the exact qualities you should be looking for in order to get the best large room humidifiers:

4 Important Features to Look for in Large Room Humidifiers

If you’re looking for a huge room air humidifier, the following are the most important features to look for:

Capacity of water Water tanks for large room humidifiers should be at least 3 liters. The humidifiers in the table below have a water capacity of up to 6 L (Note: The greatest whole house humidifiers don’t have a tank; they have a continuous supply of water).

Humidistats with humidity indicators are also built into large room humidifiers (set humidity levels to, say, 40% and check with indicator).

Coverage of the entire room This should go without saying; manufacturers state the maximum size of room that their humidifier can humidify. The largest humidifiers can humidify spaces ranging from 323 square feet to 753 square feet (the entire home HVAC humidifier has a 4,000 square foot coverage area).

Mist output can be both warm and cool. Most humidifiers only create cold mist; the greatest large room humidifiers, such as, can produce both cold and warm mist at a rate of 200 ml/h.

Hours it will run  It’s inconvenient to have to refill the water tank; the best humidifiers for large spaces should be able to run for 40 hours or more without needing to be refilled.

4 Additional requirements include:

The ease with which a humidifier can be cleaned. Cleaning large humidifiers is another arduous process, so choose the one that is the easiest to clean for a large room humidifier.

Noise levels are high. If you’re shopping for a humidifier for a large bedroom, the decibel levels are important to consider. Humidifiers that are whisper quiet are definitely desired.

Humidifier model. The most common type of humidifier is a cold mist humidifier. The best whole-home humidifiers that are incorporated into the HVAC ductwork to the best filterless ultrasonic humidifiers for large rooms are all types of humidifiers.

Humidistat inclusion. The relative humidity in your home is measured by a humidistat. Your relative humidity goal should be between 35 and 45 percent. By reducing the production of bacteria, viruses, fungi, and dust mites, humidity levels of 35 to 45 percent have been demonstrated to minimize the prevalence of respiratory infections, allergies, and asthma symptoms.

For a large room, what size humidifier do I need?

The importance of humidifier sizing cannot be overstated. In many circumstances, we don’t need to bother about the size of the humidifier. However, if we have a huge space, we must know what size humidifier will be sufficient to supply moisture to it.

The warm or cold mist output of a humidifier is related to its ability to enhance relative humidity levels from 20-30 percent (too low) to 35-45 percent (just right). The cold mist output, on the other hand, is not listed on the specification sheet of most humidifiers.

That’s why the most straightforward method for sizing a humidifier is to match water capacity (tank size) to room coverage. In rooms with conventional 8-foot ceilings, we can utilize the following rule of thumb:

1 liter of water equals 100 square feet of covering

Liters are the units of measurement for water capacity (L). A liter is about a quarter of a gallon. A humidifier of this type may cover around 100 square feet of living space for every 1 liter of water tank capacity.

That means 1L humidifiers are suitable for a modest 100 sq ft room, whereas 6L humidifiers are suitable for larger spaces.

You can roughly determine the size of humidifier you require using this humidifier sizing rule of thumb.

Risks of Power Outages in Winter

Power outages in the winter are both inconvenient and dangerous. Lack of heat, lighting, internet connectivity, and appliances are among the most evident dangers. Your home may endure frozen pipes, communication problems, and even hypothermia during extended outages.

Aside from these threats, there are a number of lesser-known risks that might put your family in danger. Here are five points to think about.

  1. Medical Conditions – Is there anyone in your family who has a medical condition that necessitates the use of electricity? During power outages, medical equipment, health monitoring applications, and even basic necessities like warm baths and compresses are unavailable.  This is a serious circumstance for an elderly or injured person. The usual interruption lasts 2 to 5 hours, although winter storms can cause disruptions to last considerably longer. By obtaining a generator from a trustworthy generator service, you can ensure that medical equipment will have uninterrupted electricity.
  2.  Food Poisoning – It’s easy to overlook the consequences of a power outage on your food supply. After all, your refrigerator normally runs smoothly without much attention, and a grocery store is probably only a few miles away. All of this changes during winter storms, when power and roads may be out. Food illness can swiftly develop due to a lack of refrigeration.Food pathogens like salmonella and E.coli can start to take hold within two hours after food hits “danger zone” temperatures of 40 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit, according to the US Department of Agriculture. That’s why it’s critical to have a food backup plan in the event of a power loss, such as using a generator or cooking with a propane, butane, kerosene, or sterno stove. Before eating, most canned vegetables and soups need be heated, and even dry items like rice and pasta should be boiled in hot water.
  3.  Water Contamination – When it comes to water, did you know that power interruptions put your water supply at risk?

The operation of water treatment plants necessitates the use of electricity. They normally have large industrial generators, but these can fail during protracted outages because everyone in town relies on them. Having gallons and bottles of water on hand is a good idea.

Your bottled water will, of course, freeze during protracted outages. Some experts recommend pouring your emergency water into clean coolers, which will help it stay warmer for longer.

If you have access to a generator or a fuel stove, you can boil water for one minute to confirm its safety. If you suspect contamination in your water, a water filtration kit can help. Remember to drink less water overall and bathe only on rare occasions, as damp skin makes you feel colder.

4.  Increased Injury Risk
It may seem ridiculous, but it’s a real issue: people are more likely to be injured during power outages and interruptions. It is not necessary to be clumsy to sustain an injury.

People are forced to lift and move items they would not typically handle, such as equipment and debris, in these situations. Strains, sprains, breaks, inflammation, and pain become more common all of a sudden. Rooms are significantly darker without electricity, which increases the risk of trips and falls.

When the power goes off, it varies rather than going out completely. This adds to the dangers. Power surges can result in electrocution and fires.

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention warns about the dangers of power outages, including the following serious risks of injury:

  • Contact with electricity lines that have been downed
  • Home electrocution
  • Gasoline toxicity as a result of siphoning
  • Accidents at work
  • Cold and exposure-related health problems

5. Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

Is there a carbon monoxide detector in your home, and if so, will it work during a power outage?

The risk of carbon monoxide poisoning is greatest in the winter, when windows are closed and people are confined to small quarters. Vehicles, stoves, and heaters that burn fuel can produce dangerous levels of carbon monoxide.

Invest in a high-quality carbon monoxide detector with a battery backup. If you utilize a generator, inquire with the manufacturer about correct placement and operation to alleviate any carbon monoxide risks.

Carbon Monoxide Warnings at Home

Carbon Monoxide is something you should be aware of. Over 400 Americans die each year from CO poisoning, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) (not caused by fires.) CO also leads to more than 20,000 visits to the ER and over 4,000 hospitalizations.

What is carbon monoxide, and what does it do?

Carbon monoxide (CO) is a colorless, odorless, and tasteless gas that is toxic even in small amounts. It is made up of one carbon atom and one oxygen atom.

What causes CO to be poisonous?

Hemoglobin is a chemical found in red blood cells that transports oxygen from the lungs to all of the body’s tissues, then returns carbon dioxide (CO2) as a waste product that can be readily expelled and breathed. Carbon monoxide (CO) attaches to hemoglobin about 200 times more easily than oxygen, therefore if CO is present, oxygen will be unable to enter the hemoglobin since the space has been taken up by CO. Sections of the body will be deprived of oxygen as a result, and the damaged parts will die.

What are the signs and symptoms of CO poisoning?

The person may feel as if they have the flu but might not have a fever. If numerous persons in the same building exhibit the same symptoms, they could all be suffering from CO poisoning. All cooking and heating equipment should be switched off, all windows should be opened, and the local gas safety authorities should be alerted if this occurs. The symptoms of CO poisoning become more severe the longer a person is exposed to it. A person may experience loss of balance, vision issues, memory problems, and eventually loss of consciousness within a few hours of first being exposed. If the symptoms are fairly minor, there is a good possibility for a complete recovery. Other symptoms, such as disorientation, memory issues, and coordination difficulties, may appear later, even months after inhaling CO gas. Coronary heart disease is one of the long-term effects of CO poisoning. CO gas poisoning affects people more quickly if they have heart or respiratory difficulties. Pregnant women, infants, and tiny children are especially vulnerable. CO poisoning causes pets to respond swiftly. If a family pet becomes ill or dies abruptly, and the death cannot be attributed to anything else, such as age or a pre-existing ailment, the owners should rule out CO poisoning as a possibility.

What is the source of CO?

In the past, several sections of the country relied on coal-based public gas sources. This gas, which contained carbon monoxide and was extremely toxic when unburned, became a popular method of suicide. Thankfully, the carbon monoxide burned along with the gas and was made harmless. Most direct sources of carbon monoxide (CO) have been restricted since then. CO is still an issue because it is produced to some extent anytime anything burns. Liquid fuels such as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, or lamp oil; gases such as natural gas, LP gas, or propane; and solid fuels such as wood, paper, charcoal, or cloth are all examples.

Because natural gas (methane) contains no carbon monoxide, it is not dangerous in its unburned state. It’s also lighter than air, so if you give it a chance, it’ll float away.

Fortunately, larger levels of carbon monoxide are only produced when any of these situations occur with natural gas:


While burning, the burner flame “impinges” or touches metal.

The flame consumes less oxygen than it need to burn.

The flame re-burns previously burned air.

This is useful knowledge because many cooks like natural gas and it is commonly used. With gas, heat is evenly distributed, and changes are quick. Because the flames are visible and changeable, the heat is also easier to control. On a household gas stove, an open burner produces almost minimal carbon monoxide, but as soon as a metal pot is placed on the burner, CO output begins to climb. The ends of the burner flames are contacting the metal pot, which causes this.


Is it safe to heat my house with my oven or cooktop?



During the winter, residents keep their homes as warm as possible by closing the doors and windows as tightly as possible. Outside air has very little opportunity of entering the structure as a result of this. As the burners begin to operate, they will begin to burn “used” or oxygen-depleted air that has already been burned (re-burn.) When this happens, the oven will immediately start emitting large amounts of carbon monoxide. The same can be said about stovetop burners. They will eventually burn oxygen-depleted air and produce large amounts of carbon monoxide.


The most dangerous circumstance is re-burn, which is usually the cause of the few true CO fatalities that occur each year. Re-burn can also occur when an exhaust flue malfunctions, is obstructed or disconnected, or is being back-drafted by another source such as an attic or exhaust fan, or an open window on a windy day. The gas burners use oxygen and release carbon dioxide and water vapor as they operate. The oxygen level in the area begins to drop over time, and the flames consume more carbon dioxide and produce enormous amounts of carbon monoxide (CO). When the flames start producing CO, the rate swiftly increases until the inside air becomes fatal.


When used for long periods of time in a tight place, any small non-vented gas heater becomes dangerous due to re-burn. Open flame construction heaters, radiant heaters, overhead linear radiant heaters, and cook stoves are all examples of this.


Any amount of carbon monoxide in the air you breathe should be taken seriously. The long-term consequences of continuous low-level exposure have not been thoroughly studied. There have been no long-term studies that have looked at the overall effects of living in a CO-rich environment. Even safety agencies (both public and private) come to differing judgments about what constitutes a safe level of exposure.


Are there any other CO sources to be aware of?

CO gas can be produced by household appliances such as gas-fired boilers, central heating systems, water heaters, stoves, and open fires that use gas, oil, coal, or wood. A blocked flue in a wood-burning fireplace can be fatal. Within 10 minutes, CO poisoning can be caused by an idle car engine in a confined location.


If household appliances are properly maintained and utilized securely, they should emit very little CO gas. CO emissions are increased when aging appliances are used and not serviced on a regular basis.

CO levels in the blood grow as a result of smoking cigarettes. CO gas is produced when charcoal is burned. CO cannot escape through clogged flues and chimneys. CO poisoning can be caused by fumes from certain paint removers and cleaning products. Methylene chloride (dichloromethane)-containing products should be handled with caution since when breathed in, it converts to CO.

How to Tell When Your Hot Water Heater Needs Replacing or Repair

Water heaters are necessary parts of our homes. We utilize them in everyday activities such as bathing, using the dishwasher, and washing the clothes. However, because we use them so frequently, it’s easy to take them for granted and forget that they require upkeep. Failure to do so will lead to malfunctions and difficulties, as well as the need to replace your water heater. Identifying the initial indicators of a problem might assist you in repairing your water heater before it worsens.

To recognize the earliest signals of disaster, you don’t need to be an expert. For your water heater to be fixed, all you need is a good sense of observation. This McKinney plumbing business can assist you with your water heater repairs and get it fixed so it works properly again.

Here are three indicators that your water heater is in need of repair.

The hot water smells funny or is discolored.  If you notice an off scent or a rusty tint in your hot water, you should investigate more. A rusted anode rod in the water heater could be the source of the odor. There’s no need to be concerned because the anode rod may be replaced, which will erase the stink. Bad odors are also caused by bacterial development. This occurs when the hot water has been turned off or not utilized for a long time, or when the thermostat is set to an extremely low temperature.

Corroded pipes can also cause your water to be discolored. Installing a water softener or repairing the pipes can fix this problem. If there are a lot of sediments in the water, the water heater has to be fixed.

There isn’t enough water, it’s too hot, it’s not strong enough, or there isn’t any at all. If you don’t have any water, make sure your water heater is turned on and working properly. If it is, have a plumber look at it. If there isn’t enough water, it could be due to an undersized water heater, which is a regular occurrence when a large number of people use the water heater. The presence of mineral deposits inside the water heater tank could also be to blame. You may need to adjust the temperature dial of the water heater if the water is too hot or not hot enough. If the temperature does not change, have the water heater inspected and fixed.

Unusual noises and leaks. Flooding could result from leaks in your water heater. Strange noises, such as pops, bangs, gurgles, and other similar noises, are also apparent symptoms that something is wrong with your water heater. A accumulation of sediments inside the tank is typically to blame. A boiling sound, on the other hand, could indicate that the water heater has overheated or that pressure is building inside the tank. To avoid more issues, all of these must be handled right away.

It’s critical to get your water heater fixed as soon as you notice these symptoms. This will help you save money, prevent future damage, and avoid having to replace your unit too soon.

A Dozen Ways to Improve Your Indoor Air Quality

We spend the majority of our time in the privacy of our own houses. As a result, we should breathe clean, fresh indoor air that is devoid of bacteria and germs.

The air inside our homes is sometimes more polluted than the air outside. Long-term exposure to dirty air can have serious health consequences for both adults and children. In reality, it is detrimental to people who have asthma, chronic bronchitis, COPD, and other respiratory illnesses.

As a result, in addition to controlling outdoor air pollution, it is critical and equally necessary to take steps to enhance indoor air quality.

We’ve compiled a list of simple techniques to assist enhance indoor air quality. So, without further ado, let’s have a look at these indicators.

Simple Steps to Improve Indoor Air Quality

Purchase an Air Purifier

This is one of the most effective methods for purifying your home’s air. There are a variety of air purifiers on the market. Choose the best bargain and display it in the most visited location of your home.

Allergens that cause allergies and other respiratory problems are captured by ionic air purifiers. In addition, purchase a dehumidifier for the wet regions of your home. It aids in the prevention of mold formation. During the summer, a dehumidifier will keep the humidity levels in check.

Another source of moisture is your bathroom. As a result, it should always be ventilated and dehumidified.


To keep the air quality high, sufficient ventilation and airflow are required. It is recommended that you open your house’s doors and windows on a frequent basis to allow air to circulate. The stale air is removed and replaced with fresh air. Even during the frigid winter months, do this to bring fresh air into your home.

If you live in a filthy and congested metropolis, however, the inside air will be even more polluted. In such instances, open the windows late at night or early in the morning when pollution levels are at their lowest.

A trickling ventilator could be installed near your doors or windows. Filters in these devices clean and purify the air that enters your home. Because cooking is the biggest source of indoor air pollution, the best spot to put ventilators is in your kitchen. Furthermore, these gadgets improve your cooking experience by preventing the unpleasant odor of burned spices, which can cause respiratory problems.

Keep Air Conditioners Clean

Air conditioners remove moisture from the air and refresh stale air. This aids in the effective improvement of indoor air quality. Furthermore, all modern air conditioners make use of the most cutting-edge technologies and air-cleaning filters. Impurities, pollen, dust, germs, and bacteria are all removed by these filters.

However, you must clean these filters on a regular basis to avoid compromising the quality of the air in your home. The directions for cleaning the filters are listed in the manual that came with the air conditioner.

Clean House

At home, dust and filth contribute to poor air quality. They not only induce allergies, but they also make you weary and drowsy. Fabrics, such as sheets, bedding, cushions, pillows, and curtains, are the most common sources of these pollutants. They also persist for a long time until the clothes are cleaned.

As a result, you should wash and clean your linens, curtains, and other objects on a frequent basis. When washing, use hot water because it is capable of eradicating germs and viruses. This is also required to keep one’s health and hygiene in good working order.

If you have pets, you should vacuum your bed, sofa, and floor on a regular basis to avoid pet hair accumulation. Respiratory discomfort and allergies are caused primarily by this.

Vacuuming the rugs and carpet area at least once or twice a week is recommended. Use a vacuum cleaner with a HEPA filter to get the best results when it comes to cleaning pollutants. Remove clutter as well, as it collects dust and contaminants.

Indoor Plants Can Be Beneficial

Indoor plants give a splash of color to your home’s interior design. They are, nonetheless, susceptible of accumulating and producing mold. You should avoid them because they raise the degree of air pollution in your home.

Some indoor plants, on the other hand, help to improve interior air quality by releasing oxygen. They clean the air by removing contaminants, letting you to breathe in fresh, clean air. Let’s have a look at a few of these plants in action.

  • Bamboo Palm
  • English Ivy
  • Gerbera Daisy
  • Corn Plant


Make Use of Eco-Friendly Cleaning Supplies

To clean your house, you’ll need cleaning supplies. These items will aid in the removal of dust and other contaminants. However, make sure the cleaning solutions you choose are devoid of chemicals and composed of non-toxic materials. These substances may leave a residue that degrades air quality.

Make sure the goods are environmentally friendly and safe to use, especially if they will be used near youngsters. To make your home gleam, use natural cleaning products such as lemon, baking soda, and vinegar. There are no poisonous or dangerous residues left behind by these products.

Laundry detergents and bathroom cleansers should also be fragrance-free, as fragrances can irritate asthma and allergy sufferers.

No Smoking Inside the House

Smoking should not be allowed inside your home. Also, do not allow visitors or other members of your family to smoke in your home. Cigarettes emit second-hand smoke, which not only stinks but also poses serious health hazards such as lung cancer and asthma. If you must smoke, it is recommended that you take a break and smoke outside.

Beeswax Candles

Negative ions released by beeswax candles have cleansing qualities. Airborne pollutants and impurities contain positively charged ions. As a result, when these candles are burned, negative ions are released, causing the positive ions to fall out of suspension.

Furthermore, beeswax candles are completely natural and free of toxins. They improve air quality while adding a pleasant scent to the environment. Also, because these candles burn slowly, you won’t have to refill them as frequently.

Himalayan Pink Salt Lamps

If you don’t want to use candles, a salt lamp is an alternative. Place a light source in a big mass of Himalayan pink salt to make these lamps. When ignited, the salt generates negative ions, which suck pollutants from the surroundings.

The negative ions will counteract the positive ions produced by allergens and pollutants. This is a helpful method for minimizing asthma symptoms. There have been instances of asthma sufferers experiencing fewer symptoms.

Activated charcoal

Activated charcoal is a non-toxic approach to improve air quality. It’s been around for a long time.

Activated carbon filters are included in many air purifier filters to remove pollutants and impurities from the air. Activated charcoal is also found in HEPA filters found in vacuum cleaners and air conditioners. As a result, it is a quick and efficient solution to improve indoor air quality.

Water Leaks

Mold can form as a result of water leaks, lowering air quality. Allergy and asthma sufferers are also affected. As a result, make sure there are no leaks at home.

If you detect a leak in your appliances, call a specialist right away to have it fixed. This will help to enhance the quality of the air while also keeping you and your family safe.

Remove Shoes at the Door

Shoes transport coal tar, dust, pollen, poisons, bacteria, and other contaminants into your home, so don’t wear them inside. You wouldn’t want to bring outside pollutants inside your home, would you? As a result, take your shoes off and leave them outside.

Solar Fence Charger Advantages

It’s unsurprising that solar fence chargers are getting more popular, given the expanding popularity of solar energy.

When an intruder or animal gets into contact with the fence, a solar fence charger delivers a shock to the invader or animal.

If you’re not sure what else a solar fence charger can do for you, keep reading. The following are some of the advantages of using a solar fence charger.

Carbon Footprint Reduction

Solar energy is a renewable source of energy that does not emit damaging greenhouse gases when used. Unlike standard electric fence chargers, which rely on fossil fuels, this one runs on electricity.

When you use a solar fence charger, you are effectively using solar energy to power the fence and, as a result, you are conserving electricity. You will reduce your carbon footprint by not contributing to the generation of hazardous gases.

Additionally, if you’re employing the solar fence chargers to keep your farm safe. Because you can safeguard your plants from animals and humans, you are also helping to make the earth more sustainable.

Lower Utility Bills Each Month

When your appliances, or in this case, your fence chargers, are powered by traditional energy. The cost will be calculated according to the amount of energy used.

The electricity cost will be substantial, especially if the electric fence chargers are left on for an extended period of time. You won’t have to pay for the electricity used by the fence if you use a solar fence charger.

This is because solar energy originates from the sun, and it will be free to use because sunlight is available to everyone.

The only payment you’ll have to make is for the expense of getting a solar energy fence. And some upkeep during the fence charger’s lifespan.

Long Running Time

Solar fence chargers typically have a long battery life. They can also work for up to two weeks without being exposed to sunlight. This can only be done if the batteries are fully charged.

As a result, there’s no need to bother about turning it off or on. Because the solar fence charger will continue to work as long as it is in direct sunshine.

Even though two weeks of battery life may appear to be a long time, other people may believe it is insufficient. In that instance, a backup battery is a viable option. And make sure it’s charged so you may use it anytime you need it.

Also, if you want to keep the solar fence charger working, you must replace the batteries every 3 to 4 years.

Animal Safety

When humans and animals come into contact with a standard electric fence charger, it can be lethal. The damage is far less fatal with a solar fence charger, but it’s still enough to keep people and animals away from the fence.

You can use it to keep your own animals within the region you want them to be in as well as prevent animals from entering. Even if the animals try to escape the solar fence charger, they will not be harmed and will remain where they are supposed to be.

Even in the event of a power outage, you’ll be safe.

Works Anywhere

Whether rural or urban, these places may encounter an inconsistency in the flow of electricity and when this occurs, the security of the fence charger is jeopardized, defeating its function.

You don’t have to be concerned about security with a solar fence charger. Because the solar fence charger was designed to work even in the event of a power loss.

Solar batteries, as previously said, may last up to two weeks without sunshine, so you’re relatively safe during power outages and when there’s no sunlight.

Simple Installation

The installation of a solar fence charger is simple and may be done without the assistance of a professional. A solar fence charger may also be readily moved and does not waste any resources.

A Solution for Overheated Attics

Your home’s roof structure is similar to your skin. The roof’s surface is heated by the sun’s rays. Through conduction, the entire bulk of the roof (roofing, roof paper, nails, sheathing, and rafters) warms up. The structural mass of the roof will soon get so heated that it will radiate heat on its own (like the sun). This radiant heat travels through the attic space and strikes the material on the ceiling structure’s surface (insulation, wood joists, drywall, ducting etc.). The entire mass of the ceiling structure suddenly transforms into a massive heat radiator. This heat returns to the roof, where it will continue to emit heat long after the sun has set. Much of this heat will radiate downward into your home if your ceiling is not airtight and exceptionally well insulated.

Air in the attic that comes into contact with the hot frame surfaces will be heated by conduction. A heated air sandwich is generated between the roof and ceiling structures as a result of this. The attic interior becomes substantially hotter than the outside temperature due to the heat of all these surfaces.

Some roofing materials would be affected by trapped air and heat in the attic. It could also result in condensation, which could lead to mold problems. This is why ventilation must be included into the building of attic areas. The lower eave portions and the top roof ridge or gable end have air holes. Fresher, colder outside air circulates naturally through convection up from the eaves and out through the gable or ridge vents through these apertures.

Any HVAC equipment located in an overheated attic will be under constant stress and may not last as long due to the overtaxing of its systems.

If your home has a heated attic and ceilings in the summer, a system, not just a powered attic exhaust fan or ventilator, is the answer. A design that includes radiant barriers and sufficient ventilation should be considered to eliminate a hot attic. This is always best done when the house is being built. It may be difficult, if not impossible, to adapt this construction once it has been built.

What you need to do is keep the heat from escaping into the house. A completely sealed ceiling, a very thick layer of insulation, radiant barriers (reflective foil layers) above the insulation (preferably between the rafters) to block the radiation and isolate your hot attic from your cool house, additional ventilation openings, and possibly a powered attic fan to remove warm air from the attic at the proper exchange rate are all likely requirements for your plan.

Consider the conditioned-space attic, which is an even better option. Using foam insulation placed to the pitched roof, create a conditioned space in your attic. This resulted in a perfectly cool attic, lower electricity bills, and easier temperature control in the second-floor rooms. Despite the fact that this layout was a little more expensive, it provided a completely cool and comfortable second level.

How To Check the Flue in Your Furnace During the Heating Season

In the bitterly cold winters of New Jersey, your furnace is essential, burning gas or oil to keep your home warm. Dangerous gases are created during the combustion process. Sulfur dioxide, nitrogen dioxide, and carbon monoxide are all examples of this. To keep your home safe, these gases must be evacuated outside.

The flue, a huge metal pipe that runs from the furnace to a chimney liner or an independent flue pipe, is responsible for this.

How to Check the Flue in Your Furnace

The flue safely transports combustion gases through your home and up through the roof, where they are expelled over the roofline. Any obstructions, leaks, or damage to the flue could allow combustion gases to enter your home, posing a risk to your health.


Flue Problems in New Jersey Households: What Causes Them?

When the following conditions exist in the flue, combustion gases can enter your home:


  • The pipe has a leak.
  • A blockage in the flue caused by a foreign object
  • Backdrafting

When the furnace is unable to pull enough air from the interior of your home to feed the combustion process, it must instead draw air through the chimney itself, carrying the combustion gases with it.


Flue issues can be caused by a variety of factors, including:


Corrosion: Combustion gases contain a lot of moisture and acidic chemicals, which can corrode steel flue pipes and cause leaks over time.

Loose couplings: As the flue expands and contracts with temperature changes over time, loose joints can form, causing leaks.

Damage to the flue pipe can restrict airflow and cause backdrafting if it is damaged due to an accident or improper installation.

Inadequate airflow: If your furnace doesn’t have enough air to burn, it will backdraft. A powerful exhaust fan that creates negative pressure can produce this. It could also be caused by too many fuel-burning machines in a compact mechanical room or a poorly balanced HVAC system, which creates negative pressure and draws combustion gases within.

Broken tiles, bricks, and other debris can fall into the flue and stop it if it connects to a chimney liner or travels through an existing chimney.

If the cap is missing where the flue pipe exits the roof, debris can fall into the flue, or animals such as birds can establish nests in the pipe during the summer.

Where Can You Look For Your Furnace Flue?

The flue for the furnace is normally found on the top or back of the furnace. It will connect directly to a chimney or a vertically extending metal flue pipe on the roof. Although it may be visible in the attic, the majority of the remaining pipe will be hidden as it runs through your home.


How to Inspect Your Furnace Flue in Your New Jersey Home

The visual inspection of your flue pipe is the most important part of the process. Check the flue pipe for indicators of damage before each heating season, such as:




Joints that are loose

White streaks or water stains

Deposits of soot on the pipe or furnace

A missing flue cap or chimney damage may also be seen from the ground.


It is, nevertheless, advisable to consult a professional for HVAC repair service for a comprehensive flue inspection. Celestial Air can ensure that your flue is in good working order, clear of blockages, and correctly drafting.

Why Are Commercial Refrigerators So Expensive?

What is it about Commercial Refrigerators that makes them so expensive?

Commercial refrigeration units are one of the pricier investments a new food service establishment has to make. Having good equipment is the difference between passing a health inspection and having a patron become ill because their food was not chilled properly.

There are six main reasons why commercial refrigeration units cost more than equivalent residential ones.

1. Wear and Tear

Commercial refrigerators are under constant use by a lot of people in a commercial establishment. With their doors opening and closing perhaps hundreds of times a day, a commercial refrigerator needs to be able to hold up to constant abuse from people in a hurry.

2. Longevity

While a home refrigerator barely lasts 5 years these days, a commercial one is designed to perform its function for 10-18 years under heavy use. That means that everything involved in the manufacture of a commercial refrigeration unit must be of exceptional quality. Quality costs money.

3. Materials

Residential refrigerators typically have a lot of plastic components such as shelves and dividers which are fine for occasional or light use. The working parts are engineered for sporadic use and aren’t always made from the highest grade materials to cut down on weight and cost. Further, the top must-have items for a residential fridge are not the same as for a commercial refrigerator and there will be a cost differential between those priorities.

4. Certification

All commercial refrigeration equipment must be NSF certified. NSF International is a regulatory body tasked with the mission of ensuring food safety. To meet these standards, refrigeration equipment for commercial establishments must be made from approved food contact surface materials such as stainless steel, which is more expensive than plastic or aluminum.

Stainless steel is able to be bleached and sanitized to local health code standards. Other refrigerator materials are not.

5. Consistency

Refrigerators used for commercial establishments must be able to maintain a consistent temperature no matter how many people open and close the door during the course of a day. This puts great strain on cooling mechanisms which must be robust enough to provide enough cooling capacity per square foot to maintain this chosen temperature. This means larger fans and condensers.

6. Competition

There are fewer commercial refrigerator makers than their are residential refrigerator manufacturers. Competition helps keep prices down. When you are making fewer units per year for your commercial customers and prospects, the cost of what you are making will necessarily increase.

Five Steps to Prolong Refrigeration Equipment Lifespans and Conserve Energy

There are 5 steps you can do to save energy and extend the life of your refrigeration equipment.

The following is a short, important list of things you can do to reduce power use and extend the life of your commercial refrigeration units, including coolers, freezers, and ice machines.


This list is simple to check and essential for keeping product temperatures consistent. If you have any questions after reading this, please do not hesitate to contact us!


1. Clean Condenser Coils

Coolers, freezers, and ice makers all have condensers! The heat exchanger in refrigeration units is the condenser coil. It is the coil on the outside of the unit that expels heat from the refrigerant by forcing it through a coil with the help of a fan. It is essential to keep this coil clean in order for the unit to work properly. Failure to do so will result in costly repairs such as compressor failure, fan motor failure, capillary tubing constraints, burnt wiring, and thermostat failure, to name a few.


Every six months, we recommend having the condenser coil pressure cleaned by a professional. Users can clean the coil with a brush in between expert maintenance visits. The brush approach, on the other hand, does not clean within the coil and should not be used in place of routine maintenance. These coils may need to be degreased and cleaned more often on a kitchen line. The condenser coil is commonly found at the bottom or on top of self-contained coolers and freezers. It’s normally accessible by removing four Phillips screws from the corners of a cover. Condenser coils are usually found at the back of ice machines. It could have an air filter that needs to be washed. Inspections should be performed on a regular basis. A clean condenser coil is one approach to GO GREEN by reducing energy usage and extending the equipment’s life. The image below shows a condenser coil that has been neglected for much too long. This is something we see on a daily basis.


2. Clearances Around Units

It is critical to maintain minimum clearances around units in order to maintain optimum air flow around the condenser coil. Self-contained units should have 2 to 4 inches of clearance around the sides and back, according to most manufacturers. The more clearance, the better in our opinion! We’d like 5 to 8 inches of clearance around the sides and back of the unit. We recognize that commercial kitchens have a restricted amount of room. We also know that the more air that can freely circulate through a unit’s condenser section, the less power it uses and the longer key components last. Jamming coolers against each other and against a wall is a surefire way to waste a lot of energy and cause a lot of problems. Coolers should not be boxed in under bars or any other enclosure. Not only would this obstruct airflow, but built-in units are incredibly complex and time-consuming to maintain.


3. Gaskets

Why let the cold seep out after your refrigerator has worked so hard to maintain the right product temperature? Inspect the door gaskets (seals) on all coolers and freezers on a regular basis. Ensure that all four sides of the gaskets are in solid contact with the door frame. Inspect gaskets for tears, rips, or missing magnetic strips. Gaskets that are worn out or not sealing properly should be changed. A good door seal is essential for regulating temperature and lowering run times as well as electricity usage. In a hot kitchen, this is especially true!


4. Door Closers and Hinges

Most hinges feature spring cartridges that assist in closing the doors of refrigeration units to guarantee that they close properly. A hydraulic door closer may be situated at the top of the door on the external area of larger coolers and freezers, notably walk-in equipment. Most cooks and kitchen personnel are just too preoccupied with hurrying orders out to be concerned about properly closing doors. It is for this reason that automatic door closers are so important. There’s a good likelihood the doors are ajar if the automated door closers aren’t working properly. Excessive run time, poor energy use, and shorter equipment life are all consequences of partially closed doors. The evaporator coils will also ice up as a result of this. Check the operation of your door by opening it all the way and then gently closing it. If the closer is working properly, it should finish the job and close the door. If the door does not close on its own, new hinges or tighter hardware is recommended.


5. Check Internal Food Temperature

Due to rapidly changing ambient circumstances, we recommend utilizing a product sensing thermometer rather than an air sensing thermometer in refrigerated units. When you use an air sensing thermometer, it only informs you how cold the air in a refrigerated unit is when you open it. It does not always provide an accurate image of a product’s real temperature. Use a Sure Temp Glycol filled thermometer to determine the real average product temperature. In a conditioned space, this thermometer is immersed in liquid and will offer an accurate average temperature reading of the product. Take a look at the temperature reading after leaving the Sure Temp thermometer in a conditioned room for a few hours. On a chilly day, temperatures between 34 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal. If it gets colder outside, you can turn the thermostat to a warmer setting to save energy. The temperature in a freezer for storing ice cream should be around -10 degrees Fahrenheit. Adjustments to the thermostat can be performed after obtaining an average temperature with the Sure Temp thermometer.